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Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
10.2 Waves at Sea. Most ocean waves are generated by wind. Wind blowing across the water’s surface creates little disturbances called capillary waves, or ripples that start from gentle breezes (Figure 10.2.1). Capillary waves have a rounded crest with a V-shaped trough, and wavelengths less than 1.7 cm.
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
27 Ιουλ 2016 · Together with the wave height, the wave period represents one of the key parameters when it comes to define a sea state. For a given wave height, the larger the period, the more energetic and powerful the swell. In addition, the period plays a crucial role (together with wave height and beach slope) in controlling the wave breaking. Some users ...
21 Δεκ 2022 · We find that about 30–40% of the global ocean experienced robust seasonal trends in mean and extreme wave height, period, and direction.
20 Απρ 2022 · Finally, since studies involving wave period distributions are relatively few, we examine the relationships between the maximum period T max, mean period (), and the average of the highest one-third (T 1/3) using a database of approximately 41,120 sea states.
5 Φεβ 2005 · A global comparison of altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period data is performed for the first time. Altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period are shown to compare well in non-swell-dominated conditions....
