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Kids learn about ocean waves and currents including what causes them, how they impact the global climate, winds, and fun facts.
- Quiz
Kids take a quiz on Earth Science: Ocean Waves and Currents....
- Quiz
Small variations in amplitude (“short” pressure waves) produce weak or quiet sounds, while large variations (“tall” pressure waves) produce strong or loud sounds. The two examples below show sound waves that vary in frequency and amplitude.
Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
Total swell: significant wave height and mean direction. Wave height is the vertical distance between trough and crest. Wave period is the time between the passage of one wave crest and the next. The arrow direction is the direction the waves are moving towards... Latest forecast.
20 Σεπ 2023 · A 5% chance of encountering a single wave higher than 35 ft. (11 m) among every 200 waves that pass in about 30 minutes. A 5% chance of encountering a single wave higher than 40 ft. (12 m) among every 2,600 waves that pass in about five hours.
Wave period forecast charts show only the dominant wave period, which represents the swell set with the most energy. Look for other upwind fetch areas in different directions or strong winds that will build waves in the local area.
As you probably have seen in the ocean or a lake, the stronger the wind, the higher the waves. The period and wavelength can be expressed in terms of their reciprocals, the wave frequency ω = 2(pi)/T, and the wave number κ = 2(pi)/λ. (ω is the Greek letter omega, and κ is the Greek letter kappa.)
