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The average wave energy is defined as [math]\lt E\gt = g \rho \, m_0 \equiv g \rho \lt (\, \eta(t)-\lt \eta\gt )^2\gt [/math], where [math]g[/math] is the gravitational acceleration, [math]\rho[/math] the seawater density and where [math]\; \lt …\gt \; [/math] designates the average over a period much longer than the characteristic wave periods.
- Hydrodynamics
Pages in category "Hydrodynamics" The following 43 pages are...
- Infragravity Waves
Infragravity waves are ocean surface waves with a typical...
- Reviewed Articles
Pages in category "Reviewed articles" The following 138...
- Hydrodynamics
5 Φεβ 2005 · The continuous 45-year length of the ERA-40 data set makes it especially suitable to study climate variability and to estimate extreme values of certain wave parameters, for example, the 100-year return wave height [Caires and Sterl, 2005b].
21 Δεκ 2022 · We find that about 30–40% of the global ocean experienced robust seasonal trends in mean and extreme wave height, period, and direction.
More information about the spectral computation of wave mean periods and parameters can be found on the paper Ocean wave model output parameters, J-R Bidlot, 2016. Some practical examples are also provided in our E-learning materials page: Jupyter Notebooks for waves .
20 Απρ 2022 · The short-term statistics of wave conditions in coastal waters around the United Kingdom have been investigated using over 40,000 half-hour long sea state records with significant wave height greater than 3 m. The extensive data set facilitates an assessment of various wave height and period distribution models in shallow and intermediate waters.
7 Νοε 2023 · The resulting ocean wave factor enhances the mean wave period values calculated using the model and other parameterization schemes. The experimental results demonstrate that our new parameterization scheme effectively improves the abnormal peak of the fitting data.
27 Ιουλ 2016 · Together with the wave height, the wave period represents one of the key parameters when it comes to define a sea state. For a given wave height, the larger the period, the more energetic and powerful the swell. In addition, the period plays a crucial role (together with wave height and beach slope) in controlling the wave breaking. Some users ...
