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Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
5 Φεβ 2005 · A global comparison of altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period data is performed for the first time. Altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period are shown to compare well in non-swell-dominated conditions....
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
The fundamentals of the mechanics of ocean wave theory and wave–body interactions were presented in this chapter. It began with an overview of linear wave theory, including the assumptions and limitations inherent in its use.
This chapter discusses the most important elements of physical oceanography in terms of the various oceanic responses to atmospheric and astronomical forcing – as mediated by earth rotation, including surface, and internal gravity waves; inertial motion and hurricane-driven storm surge.
In the open ocean, with strong winds (92 km/h) that blow for at least 69 hours, the waves will average nearly 15 m high and their wavelengths will be over 200 m. Small waves (amplitudes under a metre) tend to have relatively shallow slopes (amplitude is 3% to 4% of wavelength), while larger waves (amplitudes over 10 m) have much steeper slopes ...
As the wave period increases, the number of peaks (Np) in the wave spectrum behind the breakwater increases. A formula was presented to describe the relationship between Np and wave period.
