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S (ω) = α g 2 ω 5 exp (− β (ω 0 ω) 4) where ω = 2 π f, f is the wave frequency in Hertz, α = 8.1 × 10 − 3, β = 0.74, ω 0 = g / U 19.5 and U 19.5 is the wind speed at a height of 19.5m above the sea surface, the height of the anemometers on the weather ships used by Pierson and Moskowitz 1964.
The Wave Generation Calculator computes the mean wave parameters defining a sea state generated by a wind blowing with a specified strength and duration over a sea area. It takes the Wind Speed, Duration and Fetch as inputs. It determines the Significant Wave Height, Peak Wave Period and the Limiting Factor for Wave Growth.
Significant wave height, WVHT, is approximately equal to the average of the highest one-third of the waves, as measured from the trough to the crest of the waves. WVHT is calculated using: where m0 is the variance of the wave displacement time series acquired during the wave acquisition period.
The wave frequency spectrum can be determined from a wave record [math]\eta(t)[/math] by using a Fourier transform as follows: The wave energy averaged over a period [math][-T/2 \lt (t -t_0)\lt T/2] [/math] is given by [math]\lt E\gt =\frac{g \rho}{T} \int_{-T/2}^{T/2} (\eta(t-t_0) - \lt \eta\gt )^2 dt[/math], where [math]\lt \eta\gt [/math] is ...
The document Ocean wave model output parameters provides details about the wave characteristics (type, height, mean energy period, mean period, mean zero up-crossing period and ...) calculations using the different moments of order -1, 0, 1 and 2 where E() is the spectral energy density or elevation variance, f is the frequency (distribution of ...
3 Οκτ 2024 · To calculate the wave period \(T\), the simplest formula is the inverse of the frequency \(f\): \[ T = \frac{1}{f} \] where \(T\) is the wave period in seconds and \(f\) is the frequency in hertz (Hz). If the frequency is unknown but the wavelength (\(\lambda\)) and the wave speed (\(v\)) are known, the wave period can also be calculated using:
Follows Scripps Institution of Oceanography's method for calculating average period (APD) for their buoys. EPS2 Spectral width parameter. EPS4 Spectral width parameter.
