Αποτελέσματα Αναζήτησης
5 Φεβ 2005 · A global comparison of altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period data is performed for the first time. Altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period are shown to compare well in non-swell-dominated conditions....
Ocean waves are generated by three natural causes: wind, seismic disturbances, and gravitational attraction of the sun and moon. While a wave may move past a point, the water making up the wave will show no net movement. The water particles in a wave actually tend to move in circles.
20 Σεπ 2023 · After the wind has blown for a while, the waves get higher from trough to crest, and both the wavelength and period become longer. As the wind continues or strengthens, the water first forms whitecaps and eventually the waves start to break.
A wave is described by its wavelength (or the distance between two sequential crests or two sequential troughs), the wave period (or the time it takes a wave to travel the wavelength), and the wave frequency (the number of wave crests that pass by a fixed location in a given amount of time).
We are most familiar with the kind of waves that break on shore, or rock a boat at sea, but there are many other types of waves that are important to oceanography: Internal waves form at the boundaries of water masses of different densities (i.e. at a pycnocline), and propagate at depth.
19 Δεκ 2021 · There are various ways to discern between the different types of ocean waves, viz. by: the disturbing force, i.e. their mechanism of generation; the restoring force, i.e. the mechanism that dampens the wave motion; the length of the wave (wavelength or equivalently wave period or frequency).
The greatest ocean waves of all—with a period of 12 hours and 25 minutes and a wave length of half the circumference of the earth — these colossal oceanic bulges travel around the world at up to 700 or 800 miles per hour.
