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19 Δεκ 2021 · Due to the bed friction, the wave boundary layer dissipates energy from the flow above (this is the term \(D_f\) in Eq. 5.2.1.2); The wave-induced streaming (Eq. \(\ref{eq5.4.3.3}\)) should be taken into account for net-sediment transport computations.
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19 Δεκ 2021 · Of course the wave orbital velocities near the bed will also become skewed and asymmetric. Although the linear approximation will not describe the changing wave form, the orbital velocity magnitude can be estimated reasonably well using linear wave theory.
11 Οκτ 2021 · This page titled 5.4: Wave orbital velocity, pressure and bed shear stress is shared under a CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 license and was authored, remixed, and/or curated by Judith Bosboom & Marcel J.F. Stive (TU Delft Open) via source content that was edited to the style and standards of the LibreTexts platform.
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We will develop a linear wave theory 1(or Airy wave theory), based on the assumption that the wave amplitude 𝐴 is small (compared with the depth ℎ and wavelength 𝐿), and, hence, we may neglect second-order and higher products and powers of wave-related perturbations.
As waves approach a shoreline, their height and wavelength are altered by the processes of refraction and shoaling before breaking on the shore. Once waves have broken, they enter what is termed the surf zone.
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