Αποτελέσματα Αναζήτησης
Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
Key Concepts. Ocean waves are generated by three natural causes: wind, seismic disturbances, and gravitational attraction of the sun and moon. Waves can be thought to experience a lifecycle not unlike living things, with stages of birth, growth, maturity, and death.
Basic waves To describe ocean waves, we use a right-handed, Cartesian coordinate system in which the z-axis points upward. The x- and y-axes point in horizontal directions at right angles. In the state of rest, the ocean surface coincides with z= 0. When waves are present, the surface is located at z= (x;y;t), where tis time. The ocean bottom is
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
Figure 1.1: Amplitude spectrum of ocean surface waves and wave classification. From Kinsman [1965]. In part A of these notes the focus is on surface waves: variation of sea surface; periods T=O(seconds, minutes); wavelengths =O(mm, km). These waves are not significantly affected by the Coriolis force, since T ˝f1,
Definition. Ocean waves are oscillations of water surfaces caused primarily by wind, transferring energy across the surface of the ocean. These waves play a crucial role in coastal processes, impacting erosion, sediment transport, and the overall dynamics of marine ecosystems.
Ocean waves and laboratory waves share the same basic features: a crest (the highest point of the wave), a trough (the lowest point), a height (the vertical distance from the trough to the crest), a wave length (the horizontal distance between two wave crests, and a period (the time it takes for a wave crest to travel one wave length) [Fig 3].
