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Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
Key Concepts. Ocean waves are generated by three natural causes: wind, seismic disturbances, and gravitational attraction of the sun and moon. Waves can be thought to experience a lifecycle not unlike living things, with stages of birth, growth, maturity, and death.
Figure 1.1: Amplitude spectrum of ocean surface waves and wave classification. From Kinsman [1965]. In part A of these notes the focus is on surface waves: variation of sea surface; periods T=O(seconds, minutes); wavelengths =O(mm, km). These waves are not significantly affected by the Coriolis force, since T ˝f1,
As you probably have seen in the ocean or a lake, the stronger the wind, the higher the waves. The period and wavelength can be expressed in terms of their reciprocals, the wave frequency ω = 2(pi)/T, and the wave number κ = 2(pi)/λ. (ω is the Greek letter omega, and κ is the Greek letter kappa.)
1.The dispersion relation for ocean waves, which is introduced and ex-plained in chapter 1. 2.The principle of wave superposition, which is explained and illustrated in chapters 2 and 3. Strictly speaking, these two postulates apply only to ocean waves of very small amplitude. Nevertheless, a great many useful facts may be deduced
Key Ideas. Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean’s surface. The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the wave’s size and the depth of water through which it is moving. Wind waves form when energy is transferred from wind to water.
