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The phenomena to be studied in this course are wave-like features in the ocean with characteristic timescales of seconds up to several hours and length scales ranging between centimetres and several hundreds of kilometres.
Basic waves To describe ocean waves, we use a right-handed, Cartesian coordinate system in which the z-axis points upward. The x- and y-axes point in horizontal directions at right angles. In the state of rest, the ocean surface coincides with z= 0. When waves are present, the surface is located at z= (x;y;t), where tis time. The ocean bottom is
Probably the most familiar class of ocean wave is the surface gravity wave at the air-water interface. These motions are characterized by periods of a few seconds, much shorter than the rotational period of Earth (see Figure 1). They can be generated locally by winds applied over a short \fetch" or
Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
1 Ιαν 2007 · Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands,...
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
3 Οκτ 2013 · his text is intended to be a general but comprehensive overview on physical phenomena associated with the marine environment. I provide my own perspective on this field from my particular experiences and training.
