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  1. Periodic Motion and Waves. Speed of sound in air = 340 m/s. Speed of light = 2.9979 × 108 m/s. 1. The crests of an ocean wave are 20 m apart and you measure one wave every 10 seconds (or the frequency = 1/10 Hz). Find the speed of the wave. 2. Tides can be considered to be a big wave.

  2. Students will explore what causes ocean currents and waves. Learning Objectives: • Students will identify the primary causes for ocean currents and

  3. Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.

  4. A wave is described by its wavelength (or the distance between two sequential crests or two sequential troughs), the wave period (or the time it takes a wave to travel the wavelength), and the wave frequency (the number of wave crests that pass by a fixed location in a given amount of time).

  5. The approximate speed of a wave train can be calculated from the average period of the waves in the train, using a simple formula: speed (in knots, which are nautical miles per hour) = 1.5 x period (in seconds).

  6. The period (I) is the time taken for each complete cycle of the wave motion. It is closely linked to the frequency (f) by this relationship: quency (in hertz, Hz) = period (in seconds, s) The speed of a wave in a given medium is constant. If you change the wavelength, the frequency must change as well. If you imagine that some

  7. 6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.

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