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  1. Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.

  2. Worksheet. 14.2b. Periodic Motion and Waves. Speed of sound in air = 340 m/s. Speed of light = 2.9979 × 108 m/s. 1. The crests of an ocean wave are 20 m apart and you measure one wave every 10 seconds (or the frequency = 1/10 Hz). Find the speed of the wave. 2. Tides can be considered to be a big wave.

  3. The period (I) is the time taken for each complete cycle of the wave motion. It is closely linked to the frequency (f) by this relationship: quency (in hertz, Hz) = period (in seconds, s) The speed of a wave in a given medium is constant. If you change the wavelength, the frequency must change as well. If you imagine that some

  4. • The “Problems on Winds, Waves, and Currents” worksheet (Click here for a printable copy of the worksheet). • You may also want to review the “Tides and Water Levels” tutorial (http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/kits/tides/), which offers a tutorial on the complex systems that govern

  5. Introduction. Danielle Hall. Reviewed by Lorraine Heilman, Katie Kirk, Gregory Dusek, and Chris Zervas, NOAA's Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services. Looking toward the sea from land, it may appear that the ocean is a stagnant place. But this is far from the truth—the ocean is constantly in motion.

  6. practice problem 1. The graph below is a record of sea level heights recorded at Hanimaadhoo, Maldives during the tsunami of 26 December 2004. The data were filtered to eliminate the normal tidal fluctuations, so what you are seeing is the increase in sea level due to the tsunami.

  7. Oceanography is the study of the physical, chemical, and biological aspects of the ocean. It is a multidisciplinary science that combines elements of physics, chemistry, biology, and geology to understand the complex interactions within the marine environment.

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