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Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
1 Governing equations for waves on the sea surface. In this chapter we shall model the water as an inviscid and incompressible fluid, and consider waves of infinitesimal amplitude so that the linearized approximation suffices.
On an impervious boundary B (x; y; z; t) = 0, we have KBC: @Á * 3 ́ 3 ́ *v ¢ ^n = rÁ ¢ ^n = = U *x; t ¢ ^n *x; t = Un on B = 0 @n. Alternatively: a particle P on B remains on B, i.e. B is a material surface; e.g. if P is on B at. t = t0, i.e.
Probably the most familiar class of ocean wave is the surface gravity wave at the air-water interface. These motions are characterized by periods of a few seconds, much shorter than the rotational period of Earth (see Figure 1). They can be generated locally by winds applied over a short \fetch" or
Key Ideas. Waves transmit energy, not water mass, across the ocean’s surface. The behavior of a wave depends on the relation between the wave’s size and the depth of water through which it is moving. Wind waves form when energy is transferred from wind to water.
This chapter will review difierential equations, using the the wave equation as the primary example. Difierential equations can be considered the rules by which the universe operates. They describe a balance between the rate of change between difierent ’observables’. Difierential equations are troublesome to learn because there
The Equations of Oceanic Motions derives and systematically classifies the most common dynamic equations used in physical oceanography, from those describing large-scale circulations to those describing small-scale turbulence.
