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General introduction. The phenomena to be studied in this course are wave-like features in the ocean with characteristic timescales of seconds up to several hours and length scales ranging between centimetres and several hundreds of kilometres.
Basic waves To describe ocean waves, we use a right-handed, Cartesian coordinate system in which the z-axis points upward. The x- and y-axes point in horizontal directions at right angles. In the state of rest, the ocean surface coincides with z= 0. When waves are present, the surface is located at z= (x;y;t), where tis time. The ocean bottom is
Probably the most familiar class of ocean wave is the surface gravity wave at the air-water interface. These motions are characterized by periods of a few seconds, much shorter than the rotational period of Earth (see Figure 1). They can be generated locally by winds applied over a short \fetch" or
The Equations of Oceanic Motions derives and systematically classifies the most common dynamic equations used in physical oceanography, from those describing large-scale circulations to those describing small-scale turbulence.
Period: the time it takes for two successive crests to pass a given point. Frequency: the number of waves passing a point in a given amount of time, usually expressed as waves per second. This is the inverse of the period. Speed: how fast the wave travels, or the distance traveled per unit of time.
6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
Chemical oceanography is the study of everything about the chemistry of the ocean based on the distribution and dynamics of elements, isotopes, atoms and molecules. This ranges from fundamental physical, thermodynamic and kinetic chemistry to two-way interactions of ocean chemistry with biological, geological and physical processes. It
