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6 Μαρ 2017 · 2 Types of Ocean Waves and Wave Classification. Ocean waves can be classified in several ways (Kinsman, 1965; Massel, 2013; Holthuijsen, 2007, among others). The most intuitive and commonly used classification is based on the wave period or the associated wavelength.
7 Νοε 2023 · The wave period is a wave parameter that is significantly influenced by factors such as wind speed and bottom topography. Previous research on wave period parameterization has primarily focused on wind-dominated sea areas and may not be applicable to certain regions, such as the equatorial calm or coastal areas dominated by swell waves.
26 Ιουν 2021 · Ocean surface waves are commonly described by their directional density spectrum of height, which characterizes the distribution of wave energy as a function of wave frequency (or wave number) and wave propagation direction.
5 Φεβ 2005 · Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans is an AGU oceanography journal publishing new understanding of the ocean and its processes, and their interactions with other components of the Earth system. A global comparison of altimeter and ERA-40 mean wave period data is performed for the first time.
Introduction. 1.1 Waves in the Ocean and Their Signi cance. Atmosphere and ocean form a coupled system which continuously exchanges heat, momentum and mass at the air-sea interface governing the dynamics of weather, climate and global change.
18 Μαΐ 2010 · Abstract. The paper starts with a discussion of the linear stochastic theory of ocean waves and its various nonlinear extensions. The directional spectrum, with its unique dispersion relation connecting frequency (ω) and wavenumber (k), is no longer valid for nonlinear waves, and examples of \ (\left ( \mathbf {k},\omega\right) \) -spectra ...
20 Απρ 2022 · Plain Language Summary. The distribution of wave heights and periods is usually obtained by a number of theoretical models. The validity of these models is examined using a large data set off the coast of the United Kingdom for sea states indicated by significant wave heights greater than 3 m.
