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Refraction, diffraction, shoaling → Change of wave direction and height in nearshore area → Important for longshore sediment transport and wave height distribution → Nearshore bottom change, design of coastal structures.
The diagram below shows the reflected wavefronts and the reflected ray. Regardless of the angle at which the wavefronts approach the barrier, one general law of reflection holds true: the waves will always reflect in such a way that the angle at which they approach the barrier equals the angle at which they reflect off the barrier.
22 Ιουν 2018 · Wave refraction diagrams are used to illustrate and predict the refraction of waves approaching the shoreline. They are an invaluable tool for understanding coastal morphology and processes, and their construction is practically standard practice in coastal engineering applications.
1 Ιαν 2014 · Wave refraction diagrams are a graphical technique used to illustrate and predict the refraction the bending effect—of waves approaching a shoreline. The illustration is done by means of orthogonals, wave rays drawn perpendicular to wave fronts traveling toward the shoreline.
When the wave reaches this plane, then according to Huygens's principle, we can look at every point on the plane and treat it as a point source for an individual wavelet (center diagram below).
Refraction is the change in direction of a wave caused by a change in speed as the wave passes from one medium to another. Snell's law describes this change.
Key points: A wave is a repeating disturbance that travels through matter or space transferring only energy. Below is a model of a wave. A wave’s crest is its highest point, and its trough is its lowest point. A wave’s amplitude is the maximum distance (positive or negative) a wave reaches from its rest position.
